09-12JAN2007 "The journey there..."

We spent about 18 hours of total packing time to get ready to leave the farm. We did our final cull and filled two trunks, a huge army duffle, a trekking backpack and two bike-boxes, not to mention our carry-ons of a rolling suitcase, a backpack, and a computer shoulder bag. Patrick spent about four hours packing the two bikes and he loaded the boxes with all kinds of extra goodies, especially the ones that I disapproved of like his snorkel & flippers, old squash racket and the homebrew kit.

Despite the amount of time and angst that we put into getting all of Suki’s documents in order, the only thing that the Lufthansa lady asked for was her microchip documentation. No rabies certificate, no USDA health certificate, no veterinary certificate, no German bilingual health forms, no Kenyan import permit! I guess if we didn’t have them we would have needed them – Murphy’s law.

We all arrived safely to Kilifi after a 36 hour journey. Patrick and I spent ten hours in the United Business Class Lounge in Frankfurt thanks to Dad and Dottie, but Suki wasn’t as lucky. She was at the 'Pet Hotel' in the Frankfurt airport. We did get to watch her crate being loaded onto our flight to Mombasa, which was a relief...

When we put Suki in the crate in DC, we gave her a pig ear, her favorite treat. When we picked her up in Mombasa, the ear was untouched. It made me sad to know that during that whole trip, she didn’t feel relaxed enough even once to eat her pig ear. She didn’t get around to it until we were in the car about half way to Kilifi.

Considering the quantity of baggage and the canine, we had relatively little trouble passing through customs. We paid 500 shillings (about 8 dollars) for an animal import permit and we had a long discussion with the customs official about the bikes — apparently if you come in with a bike, you have to leave with a bike, otherwise it’s a commercial good (ie as if you sold it). We weren’t really prepared for it and when we left the customs area, we had a note in each of our passports that we entered with a bike. Now when we leave, if we don’t have a bike, the customs officials will hassle us (read - shake us down). This is going to be a real nightmare for our trip to Kilimanjaro or for Wendy’s trip back to NIH sans bike.

On our way out of the airport gates, we got pulled over by the airport police. The driver told him that we were doctors. The officer asked to see our “documentation” for all of our boxes. He kept insisting and we were too jetlagged and dense to catch on. Finally he just asked for a “little something.” I gave him a ten dollar bill which was the smallest bill I had. Then he insisted on something for his boss (wink, wink). I gave him a 1000 shilling note more, which is about 14 dollars. Considering how many times I have been to Africa, it is a little surprising that this was the first time I have been solicited for a bribe. I’m not very good at it yet.

When we arrived at Bertram house (also known as The Shack), we unloaded our gear, had a house tour with Katana & Rogers, the caretaker & the nightwatchman, and took a short stroll down the hill to the beach. The house is really very basic and sparsely furnished. It’s much hotter and stickier than when we were here in September. Suki hates it!

Stace, you would HATE it here. I don’t mind the giant green grasshoppers that hang around or the geckos that mill around vertically on the bathroom walls. I don’t particularly like the GIGANTIC cockroach that scurried out of the cupboard. It was so big that Patrick tried to get its license plate number and even I half-shrieked when it ran between my feet. Suki wouldn’t touch it with a ten-foot pole. But I am comforted to know that the bats that live in the open eaves and fly around the bedroom are taking care of the mosquitoes.

It is very peaceful and beautiful, but quite isolated and far from work. The only sounds that we can hear as we sit here on the porch are the crickets in the distance and the chirping of bats over our heads. It is a great place to unwind after the total frenzy of the last two months, but we will be glad to move to our permanent accommodations closer to town in a couple of weeks.